Monday 5 February 2007

Day Five

This is my last yummy coffee at the hotel, I'm packed and ready to leave. I'm debating whether to hang around Florence for a bit, go to the market and pick up some more parmasan as presents. Either that or I head to the station and Pisa which will give me an hour's worth of rest and not moving (my back is insanely painful now and no amount of Ibuprofen is helping at this point).
(Oh my god, this expresso is amazing!!)
I've really had a good trip in the end - I was soo worried on the first day, but I will be happy to be home, even if it means facing up to reality again. I have a happy occasion to look forward to, two friends are expecting their first child any time now. (She was born on the 19th Feb, very healthy and VERY cute).

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I'm in the train for Pisa and I was hoping to be wowed by the Toscan countryside... this is not quite the case. Distraction is provided by an sms exchange of a somewhat naughty nature with a friend from home who's bored at the office. I think the other people in the train are wondering what all the smsing is about which is funny to watch. Moving on...

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Finally found the tourist trap in Pisa, which, it turns out is the other side of town from the train station. More walking and wincing.
Lay down in the middle of the vast lawn as far away from people as possible surrounded by three amazing buildings. The weather is stunning and I have a fleeting thought for those who are stuck at the office. This is the life!!!
I'm not really in the mood for cultural visits but I have until 7pm before I have to go to the airport, so I decide to close my eyes, just for a while. I'll visit the Cathedral later on when the sun isn't soo nice.

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After having walked around as much as my back will allow I decide that I would just cut my losses and head on to the airport, check in and find a good seat and relax while waiting for the plane. I am in total agony now - it's affecting my will to live. I do the obligatory postcard-just-before-leaving-the-city-thing, grab a bite to eat and then make my way to the airport where the drama is about to begin.
(The notes from my journal are very emotional and not really pertinent as they resemble more a ramble than actual facts, so I will be editing parts out this time)

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It all starts when I try to check in for my flight. It turns out (and I still can't work out how I managed this) that I booked my flight not on the Monday night but on Tuesday night.
Now those who know me will attest to the fact that I'm an ok problem solver and in some cases (ok, usually), I will have a meltdown before I solve the problem. Today was no exception and I did it in style. Anyway, I make my way to the Ryanair desk in a hurry and a bit panicked, explain my situation and basically get told to suck it up and short of buying another ticket, there's nothing they can do - they didn't even try!
Not only was the new ticket going to cost me about 200 euros (yep, for those who were wondering how RA make their money... off eejits like me who need a last minute ticket.) but the plane was fully booked and I was on standby.
In itself not the end of the world, if I wasn't willing to pay for the new ticket, I could just book a hotel and stay an extra night...most would have.
But there was no way in hell I was staying another night in Pisa. My logical, reasonable mind had completely left me by this time and the idea of having to stay another 24hours in this tiny town (though very beautiful) was just inconceivable.

I proceeded to make money matters worse by calling my mum, my sis, my collegue and my best mate (that's you J). I wasn't looking for a solution to my problem - I knew what the options were, I couldn't just sit on pavement and sob - I was already doing that, so talking to sane people far away seemed like the best option at the time. The irony of it all, is that just at this precise point in time I get a call from home. A call I had been looking forward to and dreading for a while.
The "knight in shining armour" was true to form and while offering to find alternate flights or book a hotel, he also made the point of saying it served me right for trying to leave Pisa without going up the tower and buying a tasteless t-shirt!!!!

Anyway, the story ends by me getting on the plane that night (Thank god for Visa) and sobbing most of the flight home. Only once I got in the car at Charleroi was I able to pull it together. Now I know I'll see the funny side of this one day - I already do to a certain extent, but the airport ordeal was just the last straw. I had spent 4 days alone trying things I had never tried before. I was exhausted and in a great deal of pain.

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I acheived many of my personal goals in Florence and I think I'm a better person for it. It has been an enormously rich experience. (I don't know if I'll be doing it again in a hurry though!)

Sunday 4 February 2007

Day Four

Woke up at 11:30 this morning - Oops!!!
But hey, at least I'm sampling all sides of Florentine life, even if it is with the xpats. Could only face McDonald's for breakfast this morning - awful I know. Off to Santa Croce now, for an amble in the streets and a visit to the basilica.

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Sat in the middle of the piazza watching a puppet show. The sun is getting warmer and despite the puppets being hideous and quite scary, the puppeteers are really good and there's an amazing atmosphere here this morning.










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Moved on over the bridge, stopping to see the views and to watch what "looks" like an otter make its way across the water.
I have been told what it actually was... a water rat - Nutrie.














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Now, this is the Florence I was expecting. I spent a while wandering the streets and ended up at the botanical gardens. I realised this morning that what makes Florence such an easy city to walk, is the fact that it's very flat. The other side of the Arno is much less so, but it's so much more beautiful. I found a spot under a tree, settled down and got out my camera, I had the perfect opportunity to test the macro function.
















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Reminded that it was still only February, I got cold and decided to head back to the hotel for a hot shower. Walked back slowly trying to catch the sunset over the river. Looking for a place for a quick snack on the way. Wahey, I got it half right this time and was surrounded by Italians (at tourist prices - 10euros for a sandwich and a cup of coffee).

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My back is really starting to ache now and it's rapidly denting my enjoyment of this day, though I'm doing my very best to ignore it. It would have been ok if I had left tonight actually. I'm too tiered and in pain to do much more walking/visiting. Unless I feel like visiting the small market again tomorrow, I think I'll take it easy and head onto Pisa sometime around lunch. It's a bit of a shame I'm not venturing out tonight but I have to listen to pain and lie down.

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Went back to ZaZa's in the end. Still delicious and so cheap but that was about all i was capable of tonight.
Didn't sleep too well either which didn't help matters - dreams of things past that left me feeling sad and alone.

Saturday 3 February 2007

Day Three

Today, I have a bit more of a mission. I've decided I'll visit the east part of town with the Duomo and stuff this morning, looking for a place for lunch on the way (to avoid the hours of walking once already hungry), then I'll head down to the botanical gardens for a read (Cathy's tip). I should probably scout out where ZaZa's is so that I can give that a go tonight before heading back to the pub. I'll do Santa Croce tomorrow.

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OMG, those stairs nearly killed me! I went up to the dome of the cathedral for the 360° view of Florence. 400+ stairs, most of them are like this. But the view was spectacular and well worth it.








Need...to....sit...down....and....give....legs....a....rest.
I'll head back to the indoor market in a bit to get some Parmigiana and Bresaola for home.

I'm feeling good today, starting to de-stress and enjoy myself. Would like to find myself a place to get a manicure done (ok, really female comment, but nice nails does wonders for self confidence!!!)

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This afternoon was spent walking around some more.... and shopping. Now, knowing that Italian clothes sizes are tiny and there would be no hope of me getting into any of them, I figured i wouldn't spend much money. HAHA....
Damage was done in Sephora. It's amazing how your mood changes when you have an expensive looking shopping bag to strut your stuff with!
Found tonight's resto after walking around in circles (I can read maps... really) and then stumbled upon Mandarina Duck and added another expensive looking shopping bag to the one's already on my hotel room floor!
While walking through and underground cheap shopping mall I found a nail shop and booked myself in for later tonight.
That was a event in itself, because the girls spoke no English and me no Italian, but they were adorable and we had a good laugh - the manicure was crap and painful as hell, but a good experience.

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Went to dinner and sat on the terrace where they seemed to have placed all the tourists (It was cold tonight) keeping the warm inside seats for the locals. I ordered Tagliata di manzo and it was divine, my glass of Multipulciano was no disappointment either.

Stopped in at the pub and it got busy really quick. I had met a local there last night who had helped me out with places to see and eat. G was there again tonight and when both our drinks were empty I got him another. Now this is not the "done" thing in Italy it seems. His and his friends faces when I did this were priceless. He waited until I had my last sip and then promptly returned the favour.
There were two Americans there too, and I'll admit my first impressions were wrong... well kinda. It was clear from the start that both in the mood for some kind of flirting and it was just as clear that it wasn't gonna be with me!! Which basically made me "one of the guys" and we had a good laugh. Around 12 I decided to hit the road and get some sleep to be able to get up at a decent hour and not waste the day - I was bought a drink. I tried again an hour later claiming I was out of money and smokes to which I promptly received another drink and a cigarette. PERFECT! - This is Italian hospitality. Was then invited outside for another kind of smoke with the Yanks at closing. All in all a good night out.

Friday 2 February 2007

Day Two

Wow, I slept soo well. Wasn't expecting to, but I fell asleep really fast and woke up to a blue sky at 9am. Just in time to make it to the famous expresso machine (I will find the small spoons tomorrow!!!)

I think I will leave my map in my bag this morning and walk around. I'm going to HAVE to get over the hate of bringing out the guide book in public. I AM a tourist, should be proud of it, even though I have a strong sense that the Florentine's don't like us invading their beautiful town too much. In fact I should guzzle my wonderful coffee and get out of here, the maid is clearly getting her message across as she has wiped down the table next to me twice already.

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Piazza della Repubblica

There's a hustle and bustle on this square, and its beauty is amazing. I've decided to sit here a while and take in the atmosphere. An artist beside me is drawing the arches, and this old man has just walked passed loaded with a ladder and some paint. There is a lot of construction going on here at the moment, it means the sound you mostly hear are drills ... oh yeah.... and scooters!




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I'm sitting at a table eating alone for the first time. I'm exhausted!!! Three hours this morning and I think I'm going to have to find a nice terrace or something where I can perch for an hour or two, or I'll never make it to tonight. I visited most of the south of town this morning.

The "Offices" surprised me by it's building.
Although amazing from the outside, lodged next to the Palazzo Vecchio, the inside is comprised of long corridors bordered by busts. Each room however is very demure and not very warm.
Now, I'm not much of a "paintings" person (apart from Magritte and Dali) but Botticelli's "Primavera" impressed me a whole lot more than Leonardo's efforts.

Here is a photo that will make the dirty minds smile!











Anyway, onwards to the other side of the Arno river and the next hour was spent street wondering to find a nice, typical place to eat. True to form, missed the boat on this one because I land up in a decent looking touristy place. The atmosphere is ok I guess and it has a lovely view of the river. And how quaint to have some Dutch behind me and Oh look... here come some Brits! I have seen a couple locals here, but for some reason they have been placed in another part of the restaurant.
So, not the Italian place I was hoping, but the food... was amazing! Even the rocket tastes infinitely better than back home.`
Ok it would be good if i could stop yawning long enough to put food into my mouth!

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It's now about 4pm and I'm back in my room after walking back through town and stopping on the Piazza Santa Maria Novella for a read and a bit of sun. I'm knackered and to be honest, I'm a bit worried about how I'm going to fill the next two days. It would be great to meet some people.
I'm finding the amount of traffic a shame. Florence is a small but surprisingly noisy city, the not tranquil, calm place I was expecting. And have yet to find the perfect terrace to veg at, but with this sun, it's perfect!!!
I hate to say it but I miss not sharing this with someone.

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I went out again around 7:30 to find a restaurant that had been recommended by some friends back home. Turned out it was way over my budget so, with McD's as a last resort in mind, the search for a place begins. I must admit, it did nothing for my confidence and state of mind as I think I walked around the whole town.
Finally settled in a nice place; the food was great and the staff were friendly (I'll not write about the four tables of Brits sharing the space). Now, this whole eating alone thing is not fun. REALLY!

Thought I'd force myself to stop in for a pint to try and end the evening on a happy note. Either that or get plastered to forget! An Irish friend had suggested whenever you feel crap, look for an Irish pub... so this is what I did. I Needed a place where people would understand me and maybe give me a couple of places I could eat in for the rest of the trip...
Went in, headed straight for the bar and ordered a pint. Started talking to the staff and very soon, I was chatting away to a couple of patrons too.
Now, for those who know me, they will see that this is quite an achievement as I am usually very shy with people and situations I find intimidating. I had a decent couple of hours and stumbled home a bit drunk with the name of tomorrow night's dinner place as well as a non-walking way to spend and afternoon. I'm going to bed tonight quite proud of myself.

Thursday 1 February 2007

My first trip solo

Ok, so had this overwhelming urge to run away for a couple of days and turns out Ryanair had a slight glitch on their website and were selling their tickets without the tax. So i booked myself a trip to Florence. While I was there I kept a travel log and someone suggested i write it up here, so here it is.... (almost unmodified to keep the tone!)
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It all starts here!
J dropped me off at the Charleroi airport; bag checked in and I'm sitting at the gate (if you can even call it that) All good!
I'm already surrounded by Italian speak and I don't understand a sodding word - Promising!! But I'm already getting a glimpse if the "freedom" they talk about when travelling alone. It's kinda nice. The flashing board in front of me is wishing me a nice trip - How nice!

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OK, I definitely wasn't expecting to have to be brave not even one hour after taking off! Suddenly dawned on me that I'm alone and going in the opposite direction from home. I know I'm going to enjoy myself and whatever happens, it will be a trip I remember, but right now at this precise point in time, sitting in 9a, I'm thinking "What the hell was I thinking?" I was just fine at home, adjusting to my new routine, why rock the boat?
Destructive writing, not useful, I think I'll stop now.

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I'm now on the train bound to Firenze station. I confirmed the room, they are expecting me (it's getting late). Things are looking up and I'm getting excited.
I'm always amazed at how my mood can change soo drastically and so fast. Thank god in this case, because if I was still feeling like I was on the plane, this would have been getting harder to deal with by the minute.
(Note to self: don't forget to send J a postcard!)

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Later in my room
I'm staying in the Aurora Hotel and it turns out my room really ain't half bad. A bit dated and in serious need of a repaint and new soft furnishings but a apart from that it's actually ok - and the floor is amazing.







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I guess I should make a plan of what I want to do tomorrow. Breakfast before 10 is about all I have planned at this point. No definite plan yet, but i think I'll walk around town with a visit to the "Offices" on Friday as It should be quieter than the weekend.